Bukit

We checked into our stay at U Tube Hotel & Spa, a fantastic spot right by Jl. Raya Uluwatu main street. If we could do it again, we might choose to stay more towards the western part of Bukit, but everything is really close regardless. The hotel itself was perfect, featuring a calm atmosphere, friendly staff, scooter rentals, and an awesome swimming pool.

Uluwatu

Our first stop was the famous Uluwatu Temple, perched atop a steep cliff approximately 70 meters above sea level. As we arrived early, the only company we had were the grey monkeys that call the area home. The location is truly magnificent, and the sight of the constant waves crashing against the cliffs is simply mesmerizing. After exploring the temple, we enjoyed breakfast at one of the many cozy spots in Bukit before heading to check out the Uluwatu surf break and some additional beaches on the western side of the peninsula.

Padang Padang Beach was packed, so we quickly turned around. It’s a lovely beach, though, if you can find a quiet spot to relax. We continued our beach-hopping, crossing off beaches to the north one by one. Bingin looked promising, but the tide was so high that the waves were dangerously close to the rocks. Instead, we found a nice spot at Dreamland, a vast white sand beach with some development happening, yet it remained peaceful and oh-so-hot.

Next up was Balangan Beach, my favorite on the Bukit Peninsula. The rocky viewpoint at the far end of the beach offers stunning views.

For dinner, we followed a recommendation from TripAdvisor and headed to Padang Padang Breeze, which is said to serve the best seafood in Bali. The fish are caught in Jimbaran Bay, a prime seafood location. We indulged in a combo feast and could barely move afterward. They also make a mean mojito!

The next day, we set out to explore the south. Our first adventure was a hike through the jungle to Nyang Nyang Beach. The view from above looked perfect, and after a 20-minute trek in our flip-flops, we were eager to cool off. However, our excitement turned to disappointment when we reached the bottom. The tide apparently brings all sorts of debris, leaving a disturbing belt of plastic along the entire stretch. Bali has its share of garbage problems, but this was especially evident here.

Despite this, Nyang Nyang still has the potential to be a paradise. The water was crystal clear, and while a few surfers were out in the waves, we essentially had the whole 2-kilometer beach to ourselves.

We continued our exploration of the south, visiting Green Bowl and Pandawa Beach. Unfortunately, Green Bowl was somewhat inaccessible due to high tides, and Pandawa was completely packed. It turned out to be a holiday, and there were buses of locals flocking down the hill—definitely not our scene.

Instead, we opted for brunch, relaxed by the pool, and planned our transfer to Ubud for the next day. Goodbye, Bukit!

Ubud

We took a taxi from the south to Ubud, arriving at our new accommodation, Ubud Sari Health Resort. It’s conveniently located near the main street yet perfectly distanced amidst beautiful rice fields. The resort has a quiet, spiritual vibe, offering detox, cleansing, and health programs, but we were primarily there to enjoy the natural surroundings and the pool.

After settling in, we relaxed, cooled off, and enjoyed a delicious meal before heading out to see a Balinese dance performance in the evening. Of course, I was somewhat coerced into attending. The dance was incredibly intense, and the accompanying music only heightened the experience. It was fascinating, but after an hour of constant ringing and frenetic eye movements, I had reached my limit.

Ubud Monkey Forest

Our first stop in Ubud was the famous Monkey Forest. Though it was quite crowded, it was still an interesting experience. The grey monkeys are incredibly entertaining to watch, and I was surprised by how human-like they are in their behavior. However, they can also be quite aggressive and aren’t shy about rummaging through backpacks.

Indonesian food

When it comes to food, Indonesia was our favorite destination. We tried a variety of local dishes and loved every bite. The small, affordable warungs were the highlight of our days, with our favorite being Roda's Warung, conveniently located just down the street. We ended up dining there about five times!

We even joined a cooking class in Ubud, which was a fantastic experience!

We spent five days in Ubud, making the most of our time exploring the area. One rainy morning, we took a walk along the Campuhan Ridge, followed by a leisurely stroll through the nearby rice paddies, which we enjoyed even more. The local rice farmers were incredibly kind and always greeted us with smiles. I love that about Bali—everyone seems genuinely happy.

Tegalalang Rice Terraces

Tegalalang Village is located north of Ubud, about a 20-minute scooter ride away. It’s renowned for its stunning rice paddies, showcasing one of the three most magnificent terraced landscapes in the Ubud region, alongside the villages of Pejeng and Campuhan.

We arrived early in the morning, just before sunrise. Although the entrances next to the road were still closed, we managed to sneak in. As we made our way back toward the village entrance, we discovered an open gate and descended the stairs—there was no entrance fee! For about an hour, we had the terraces all to ourselves, and even later, it never felt overly crowded. It truly is an amazing place and definitely one of my favorites.

Kopi Luwak

With all the signs along the road, we couldn’t resist trying Luwak coffee. This unique brew, also known as civet coffee, is made from part-digested coffee cherries eaten and then excreted by the Asian palm civet. It’s believed that their digestive process enhances the flavor of the coffee beans. Kopi Luwak is one of the most expensive coffees in the world, with prices reaching as high as €550 per kilogram.

We visited a nearby farm, where our friendly guide explained that they only keep a few civets in cages while the coffee cherries are sourced from the wild and processed. However, it’s hard to know for sure how these animals are treated.

During our visit, we enjoyed a tasting of various teas and regular coffee alongside the Luwak coffee for comparison. Honestly, I didn't notice much difference in flavor.

Gunung Kawi

Our first stop was Gunung Kawi Sebatu Temple, although we were initially searching for Gunung Kawi Tamparsiring. However, we were pleasantly surprised by the beauty of this temple. Gunung Kawi Sebatu is a Hindu water temple dedicated to Vishnu, the deity believed to govern water. The complex is built around a natural spring, and since we arrived early, we enjoyed the tranquil atmosphere with very few visitors around.

Next, we made our way to Gunung Kawi Tampaksiring, an 11th-century temple and funerary complex nestled along the sacred Pakerisan River. The site features ten rock-cut candi—shrines carved into the 7-meter-high niches of the cliff face. The dramatic landscape creates an awesome, Indiana Jones-like atmosphere.

Tibumana waterfall

To cap off our day, we drove south through the charming villages surrounding Ubud and arrived at the serene Tibumana Waterfall. Known as one of Bali's best-kept secrets, it truly offered a peaceful escape. The stunning rice paddies at the entrance added to the beauty of the setting, and the smiling farmers eagerly posed for photos.

Tegenungan waterfall & Goa Gajah

Another day of road-tripping began with a cup of coffee surrounded by the lush rice paddies nearby. Nina joined me after her morning yoga class, and I couldn’t get enough of that vibrant green landscape.

We hopped on our scooter and, after a half-hour ride, arrived at the bustling Tegenungan Waterfall. This was a stark contrast to Tibumana: organized parking, vendors, shops, and restaurants filled the area. The midday heat was intense as we descended the stairs to the river and waterfall. Though the waterfall was massive and powerful—a breathtaking sight—the sun umbrellas nearby detracted from the natural beauty.

On our way back to Ubud, we discovered Goa Gajah, also known as the Elephant Cave. This ancient temple was a delightful surprise. Its exact age remains unknown, but it dates back to the time of the Balinese Empire of Bedahulu, which ended in the 14th century. The cave's facade is adorned with intricate reliefs of menacing creatures and demons, seemingly intended to ward off evil spirits. Next to the cave, we found bathing pools, a towering tree, and a path leading down into the forest. Rumor has it that the ruins of a colossal Buddha statue lie hidden there as well.

After returning to Ubud, we enjoyed a leisurely stroll through the streets, exploring the vibrant Ubud Market. We also ventured into some foreign restaurants, which offered a refreshing change from the local warungs. These spots featured fancy smoothies, fruit bowls, artisanal coffees, and a variety of Western dishes, adding a delightful twist to our culinary adventure.

To unwind after a day of exploring, we treated ourselves to a massage at Golden Hands, conveniently located near our hotel. Dewa is truly a master—his skills are reflected in his glowing TripAdvisor ratings. Highly recommended!

Mount Batur

On our last day in Ubud, we took a taxi north to Gunung Batur (1717 m), an active volcano renowned for its stunning caldera lake. While we chose not to hike up, we enjoyed a leisurely walk around the expansive rim in Penelokan, Kintamani village. By the time we arrived, clouds had already begun to form, but the view remained breathtaking.

The area is known for its persistent touts. While they usually back off if you show disinterest, those around Batur are especially relentless.

Gunung Batur has a fascinating history, with its first documented eruption occurring in 1804. Since then, it has remained frequently active, with its most recent eruption in 2000. From Kintamani village, you can clearly see the extensive lava field left by the 1968 eruption.

The caldera is impressively vast, and as we walked along the rim, we could see smoke rising from vents on the 700-meter-tall stratovolcano towering over Lake Batur. It’s truly a scene you shouldn’t miss!

Our friendly taxi driver took us back to Ubud via a scenic route, passing through his home village of Pejeng and the stunning rice paddies that surrounded us.

This marked the end of our delightful stay in Ubud and Bali. The next morning, we flew to Flores, eager for some proper sea vibes and snorkeling adventures!