Malta is a small, densely populated island in the Mediterranean, actually part of an archipelago that includes Comino and Gozo. Its strategic location means it’s packed with history, having been ruled by everyone from the Phoenicians and Greeks to the Romans, Arabs, Spanish, French, and British. Each of these left their mark, whether in architecture, language, or the island’s overall vibe.

On February 2nd, we left Slovenia on what turned out to be the first real winter day. Snow covered the roads, causing traffic jams, car crashes, and truck slips. What should have been a 3-hour drive to Treviso Airport turned into a 6-hour ordeal. We barely made our flight.

We landed in Malta after dark and navigated the chaotic left-side driving from the airport to our Airbnb in Birkirkara, a town in the central region. We figured it’d be a good base for exploring the island.

The weather took a turn for the worse, which was a bummer given the earlier forecasts. But we didn’t let that stop us. We hopped on a bus to Valletta and explored the city despite the rain. Valletta is beautiful, with its charm really shining through in the smaller side alleys, far from the busy main street.

The next day looked more promising, so we took the car and headed to Marsaxlokk, a fishing village in the southeast of the island. Since it was Sunday, the fish market was in full swing. The village, with its traditional colorful boats, was charming but also packed with tourists. After exploring, we drove toward the cape and made our way to St. Peter's Pool, a beautiful stretch of coastline.

Continuing our drive, we stopped at the Blue Grotto viewpoint, which offered a stunning view of the impressive rock formations. After that, we tried to reach the Dingli Cliffs to dangle over the edge, but we couldn’t quite find the right entry point. Instead, we ended up "one level" higher on a private property road. Even so, the views across the southern coast toward Filfla were still fantastic.

Next up was Mdina, a stunning fortified city that served as Malta's capital from antiquity through the medieval period. It’s truly one of the most beautiful places we visited and quickly became one of our favorite spots on the island.

On our third day, we headed west to explore the three bays: Gnejna, Ghajn Tuffieha, and Golden Bay. We parked at Ghajn Tuffieha and hiked around the coastal area, enjoying the solitude. It was peaceful, almost like having the whole place to ourselves—a stark contrast to how crowded these bays get in the summer.

After that short and windy hike, we drove up north and caught a boat to Comino. We disembarked at the famous Blue Lagoon, and with only about six of us on the island, it felt amazing to see the lagoon so pristine. We took a short hike around the island to catch a view of St. Mary’s Tower, which dominates the coastline. It’s an especially cool sight if you’ve seen The Count of Monte Cristo. Malta has actually been the backdrop for many movies and series.

A day in Gozo. The next morning, we drove north again and took a ferry to Mgarr in Gozo. Our first stop was Ramla Bay, where we explored the seaside and were soon joined by a random dog. The weather wasn't as great as we had hoped, but at least it stayed dry.

Next, we visited the Ggantija Temples. Known as the Giants' Tower, this megalithic temple complex is older than the pyramids of Egypt and is the world's second-oldest existing man-made structure. It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site and truly impressive.

We then made our way to Victoria, the capital of Gozo. The highlight was Cittadella, a historic walled town that's been inhabited for centuries. Wandering through its narrow streets and taking in the panoramic views of Gozo was a real treat.

Heading far west, we visited Dwejra Bay. The famous Azure Window collapsed in 2017, but the area still draws visitors with its stunning cliffs and rock formations.

On our way back, we visited Ta' Cenc Cliffs. They were accessible and absolutely spectacular. With the warm sun, a gentle breeze, the sound of waves crashing below, and no one around, it was wonderfully serene.

Xewkija was a random pitstop where we visited its Rotunda, the largest church in Gozo with the world's third highest unsupported dome. After that, we returned to Mgarr and made our way back to Malta.

Our final day brought the best weather ever. We took a bus to Valletta and explored it again, finding it lively and bustling with people. I can’t imagine how packed it gets in summer. After grabbing a coffee, we caught a bus to Sliema, a more developed town next to Valletta. We relaxed on the rocky beach there before walking to St. Julian's, another busy spot with plenty of appealing restaurants. We wrapped up the day with a walk all the way back to Birkirkara.

We enjoyed Malta and got plenty of much-needed rest. We hoped for more sunshine, but the islands were still beautiful. While there’s a lot to see, Gozo and Comino were definitely the highlights, with their cliffs and beaches looking stunning in the off-season. Everything was calm outside the towns, and we’re glad we visited in winter before the summer crowds hit.