This was our second trip to Indonesia, and we were in desperate need of a vacation. We planned a blissful three weeks of sunshine and sea: 4 nights in Gili Meno, 4 nights in Gili Air, and finally, 10 nights in Kuta, Lombok.

We arrived in Jakarta around 18:00 and opted to stay at an airport hotel. We wanted to avoid the hassle of a taxi ride to a nearby hotel and figured it would be much easier to wake up and catch another flight to Lombok in the morning. The flight was beautiful, offering stunning views over Java and Bali, with Mount Agung appearing remarkably close!

Upon landing in Praya, our friendly taxi driver was waiting to take us to the harbor. From there, a small speedboat whisked us directly to Gili Meno, where the guesthouse manager, Agung, greeted us on the beach. It was a smooth and seamless transfer experience.

Gili Meno

We stayed at Two Brothers Guesthouse and couldn’t have been happier with our choice. The staff was incredibly friendly and professional, making us feel right at home. The guesthouse itself was fantastic, located right on the beach and just steps away from the best part of the reef around Gili Meno. Their restaurant served delicious food, and we often found ourselves enjoying meals there. Our bungalow was the closest to the beach, offering us stunning views and easy access to the shoreline.

Our days were blissfully spent sleeping, relaxing, reading, eating, and snorkeling. We even spotted a turtle during our first swim! While the coral reefs weren’t in the best condition—thanks to global warming and constant tourist traffic—we still discovered some beautiful spots teeming with vibrant fish.

We booked a private snorkeling boat trip, a rare treat given the general lack of tourists following the 2018 earthquakes. Our adventure took us to three stunning spots. First, we visited the famous statue site, featuring a romantic underwater installation that was truly captivating. Next, we headed to Turtle Point, which was understandably crowded due to the abundance of turtles. At around 15 meters deep, we spotted numerous turtles resting on the seabed, with some occasionally swimming up to the surface for air. One turtle even swam directly toward us, poking its head out just a meter away!

However, the behavior of some tourists was frustrating, as they leaped into the water to touch and poke the turtles—an all-too-common issue in animal tourism. Turtle Point felt a bit staged, given the presence of seabed cages and a nearby conservatory. It seems likely that they raise the turtles, release them here, and continue to feed them, but I don’t see much harm in that approach.

We took two walks around the island, discovering that the western side was much nicer and less crowded than the east. It felt cleaner and more inviting, although the eastern beaches still held their charm. During our explorations, we visited the island's unique salt lake, teeming with birdlife. The locals seem quite proud of it, as they frequently mention it.

It's evident that the earthquakes have left their mark on the island. Many resorts are either destroyed and reclaimed by nature or in the process of renovation, while the ones still operating aren't nearly at full capacity. The locals are gradually working to rebuild their lives. However, there's a noticeable plastic pollution issue. They reportedly hold cleaning initiatives every Sunday, which is promising, but the situation, especially within the village, remains far from ideal.

On our fifth day, we made the transfer from Gili Meno to Gili Air. A small boat carried us around the island and dropped us off on the east side, right in front of our accommodation, Sunrise Resort. We were invited to stay here for two nights and capture some photos.

Once we arrived, we took a walk around the island and quickly realized it was much livelier than Gili Meno, with plenty of bars, restaurants, and people. However, I was disappointed to see the amount of trash. It was noticeably dirtier here, with litter scattered on the beach, in the streets, and even in the forest. Unfortunately, my first impressions weren't great.

Sunrise Resort was truly amazing. We had the opportunity to stay in both their Signature Suite and Deluxe Room, each for a night. The resort is surrounded by beautiful green foliage, creating a serene garden-like atmosphere. The pool area is incredibly zen, the staff is exceptionally friendly, and the food is delicious.

Our first accommodation was a charming two-story jungle house. It featured a cozy bed, a spacious bathroom, and an additional floor perfect for relaxing or doing yoga. I woke up early the next day to catch the sunrise and was rewarded with stunning views, including my first glimpse of Mt. Rinjani, which had been obscured by clouds on previous days.

Afterward, we enjoyed a lovely snorkeling session just off the beach. While there were plenty of vibrant fish, the coral conditions were unfortunately poor.

We spent our afternoons lounging by the pool, sipping Bintangs and dragon fruit smoothies, and exploring local warungs. The second room we stayed in at Sunrise was just as lovely—slightly smaller and without the rooftop area, but still cozy and clean.

We then moved slightly inland to Lagi Homestay for two more nights. This simple accommodation pleasantly surprised us with its cleanliness and affordability. The friendly staff made our stay even better, as the locals were always smiling and waving, which meant a lot to us.

Staying here allowed us to explore the island's interior, where we discovered some fantastic bars and restaurants that we absolutely loved. The warmth of the community added a wonderful touch to our experience, making it even more memorable.

A couple of cool places:

• Aura Warung: Known for its great local food, we heard their pitaya bowls are a must-try, but sadly, we ran out of time to indulge in them.

• Olala Restaurant: Absolutely amazing! We couldn't resist going back for their delicious tuna sesame dish.

• B52: This coffee spot, originally from Bali, serves a mean cup of java that we thoroughly enjoyed.

• Mowies: A charming beachfront place where we relaxed and savored the view.

• Musa: Just a short walk from our accommodation, this beautiful restaurant offered us a delightful meal of fried eggplant paired with a cup of affogato.

Our initial impression of Gili Air didn't capture its true charm. Although it’s busier and has more trash than Gili Meno, the island quickly grew on us. We discovered hidden gems—quiet spots, delicious food, and serene alleyways that showcased the local life.

As our stay on the Gili Islands came to an end, we boarded a public speedboat from Gili Meno, where we met Agung from Two Brothers. He was also heading to Lombok, so we shared a taxi to Mataram. Agung was a cool guy! Our driver, Adhe, took us to a traditional hand-weaving shop and then to the Sasak village of Sade, where a local guide walked us through the daily lives of the villagers.

After checking into our familiar hotel, Lazy Inn, we headed for lunch at El Bazar, where I enjoyed a delicious medium-rare tuna tataki. Kuta has changed a lot since our last visit, with numerous new hotels and restaurants popping up, and several large projects still underway.

We rented a scooter and made our way to Tanjung Aan, a stunning stretch of white sand that’s almost blinding. While the beach has developed over the past two years with sunbeds and warungs, it still maintains a nice vibe without any plastic litter. The water was refreshingly cooler than in the northern Gilis, which was a welcome change.

The playful beach dogs were still around, as were the kids selling bracelets. At first, their cute pitches were charming, but by the 30th encounter, it became a bit wearing. They had clearly mastered the art of small talk before launching into their sales pitch, showcasing a variety of items like lava stone, tiger eyes, blue coral, and seashells.

We took a sunset walk at Seger Beach, where the calming sounds of crashing waves and the soft evening light set the perfect atmosphere.

Afterward, it was time to head to The Bus, a quirky pizza and cocktail spot featuring an old van converted into a bar. The ambiance was laid-back and inviting. We indulged in some delicious pizza, and I heard that the Dragon Buzz cocktail was a must-try, adding to the charm of this cool joint.

The next day, we set off for another beach, this time heading west to Lancing Beach. Not much has changed here, except for a few sunbeds added to the landscape. It remains a stunning, serene spot, untouched and beautifully empty.

Next, we drove to Bukit Merese to catch the sunset. We parked our scooter at the start of Tanjung Aan, where locals gathered. Unfortunately, there was a stark contrast between the stunning scenery and the overwhelming amount of trash littering the area. Families were eating on the beach, surrounded by wrappers and waste, seemingly indifferent to the mess.

It’s disheartening to see that littering appears to be a common issue among some locals; I haven't witnessed any tourists contributing to the problem. In fact, I've picked up litter myself multiple times. It's clear that a change in mindset is needed, as beach clean-ups won't make a lasting difference if the trash keeps piling up the next day. As tourists, we do our part with refillable bottles and no straws, but our impact is minimal compared to the larger issue. It seems that some locals haven’t learned the importance of keeping their environment clean.

But enough about that. Bukit Merese itself was stunning, despite the garbage.

Our final accommodation was a charming surf house in the heart of Kuta. While the room itself was nothing special, we loved the rooftop, the lush greenery surrounding us, and the friendly resident cats that added a cozy touch.

Overall, these three weeks in Indonesia were wonderfully relaxing—perhaps even a bit too relaxing! We’re already looking forward to returning, exploring new destinations, and embracing a bit more adventure next time. Until then, Indonesia!