Our Lombok experience didn't start off as planned. After landing at the airport, we took a taxi and negotiated a price for a two-day journey, aiming to explore the north before unwinding in the south. Unfortunately, we quickly realized our driver was a bit unhinged. He altered our route, shouted at traffic, and drove like a maniac.

Our first stop was Sembalun Valley, accessible via the eastern road, which is reputed to be one of the most scenic drives. However, due to our driver's erratic driving, we couldn't fully appreciate the views. I had planned a short hike to a viewpoint in Sembalun, but the driver didn’t know how to get there and just kept driving. We managed to catch a few glimpses of Mt. Rinjani from the east, but it was mostly obscured by clouds.

Somehow, we made it to Senaru in one piece and checked into the very simple Anak Rinjani Guest House, where the super friendly host, Ari, lifted our spirits.

Senaru is known as the key gateway village for trekking up Mount Rinjani. Although we didn't have enough time for the trek, we came to visit the nearby waterfalls, which we planned to explore the next morning.

Sendang Gile
& Tiu Kelep

Visiting Sendang Gile and Tiu Kelep waterfalls alone made the trip north worthwhile. We started early in the morning and took a short 10-minute walk to the village's entrance. After paying a small entrance fee, we descended the stairs.

While Sendang Gile is easy to access, reaching Tiu Kelep requires a bit more effort. The locals offered guides, insisting we might get lost, but we decided to wing it. We crossed the "treacherous" river twice and, after about 25 minutes of walking, we arrived at the stunning Tiu Kelep—completely alone!

Benang Stokel & 
Benang Kelambu

The taxi driver was already waiting for us at the guesthouse and sadly we had to move on. This time we drove counterclockwise, passing the Gili islands and turned east in Mataram. We got stuck in traffic and the driver lost it completely.

It was a waterfall kind of day. We reached a more developed forest area with an entrance to multiple waterfalls. They forced a guide on us, so we had to go with him. In hindsight, I should insist we didn't need one. The main two waterfalls (Benang Stokel & Benang Kelambu) were beautiful but the crowds and marked paths just didn't give us the same feeling as exploring alone at Tiu Kelep.  After that on to Kuta and goodbye to the nervous wreck of a driver.

Kuta

We spent a relaxing week exploring southern Lombok, based in Kuta, a charming village quite different from its Bali counterpart. With just two main streets and a variety of restaurants, Kuta exuded a laid-back atmosphere that instantly impressed us.

We stayed at Lazy Inn, where the wonderful Cheryl welcomed us and provided excellent recommendations for dining and sightseeing. With only a few rooms, the hotel felt intimate, and the staff were exceptionally friendly.

Each day, we rented a scooter to explore the south coast, balancing our adventures with lazy beach days filled with sun and delicious food.

As the sun began to set, we often hiked up one of the nearby hills to soak in the views. Seger Beach was particularly beautiful in the evening, with tourists gathering to enjoy a beer and relax while watching the tides shift. A few local surfers added to the scene, making it all the more captivating.

Bukit Merese quickly became our favorite spot in the area. The hill is surrounded by several tiny white beaches where we often found ourselves alone. However, finding shade was a challenge, as it was scorching hot most of the time. In the afternoon, we drove to Gerupuk Village and visited Tanjung Aan Beach. While Gerupuk Village appeared quite dirty and unrefined, it’s known for having a great surf break. In contrast, Tanjung Aan was empty and peaceful, with only a few beach dogs wandering around.

One morning, Nina attended a yoga class with a stunning view over Kuta, while I took the scooter to explore the surrounding hills and watch Lombok wake up.

Surfing

It was our first time on a surfboard, and we booked a session through our hotel with two friendly instructors. We headed to Selong Belanak, a calm beach known for its steady, narrow swells, making it ideal for beginners. After three hours of paddling and surfing, we were completely exhausted! However, we had a blast, managing to stand up and ride some of the small waves. Next time, we’re definitely aiming for something bigger!

Beaches of South Lombok

Each day, we explored a beach or two. After visiting the beaches east of Kuta, including Bukit Merese, Tanjung Aan, Seger, and bypassing Kuta and Mandalika beaches, we decided to venture west. Our first stop was Are Guling, a vast stretch of sand that was pleasantly uncrowded. Next, we headed to Mawun, known for being one of the nicest beaches, although it was quite busy. Afterward, we visited Pantai Lancing, a serene 2-kilometer stretch where we encountered absolutely no one.

Our favorite beach was Mawi, or the unnamed beach just north of it. Mawi is a surf beach, primarily for advanced surfers, and it was incredible to watch them in action. The road to Mawi, however, was quite challenging.

Another hidden gem was Pantai Semeti. As you head toward Mawi, a left turn leads you directly to this spot, which features fascinating black rock formations.

We caught another beautiful sunset at Seger Beach, this time from a different hill. The evening light was breathtaking, with clear skies revealing Mount Rinjani in all its glory, allowing us to see the summit clearly.

El Bazar

The food in Lombok was incredible! The main street in Kuta is bustling with bars and restaurants. We particularly enjoyed KRNK, Milk Espresso, Warung Drifters, and The Bus. Our favorite, however, was El Bazar—slightly on the fancier side but still reasonably priced. It offers a delightful fusion of Moroccan and Indonesian cuisine, and we found ourselves dining there quite often. The service was excellent, too. I could easily return to Lombok just for El Bazar!

On our final day in Lombok, we returned to Merese Hill and claimed a beach for ourselves.

The next morning, a friendly staff member from Lazy Inn drove us to the airport. The early sunrise cast a beautiful glow over Mount Rinjani and the Gili Islands—an ideal farewell. Next stop: Yogyakarta!